White Tuna Explained (Escolar vs. Albacore)

I am not the first person on the Internet to tell you that White Tuna is a confusing order at the sushi bar.  While there are a host of fish that can be mislabeled as White Tuna, the two most common ones are the Albacore Tuna and our dreaded and delicious friend, the Escolar.

What Is White Tuna?
I worked really hard to source both fish in a raw form so that I could bring you pictures.  And by 'worked really hard', I really mean: I would keep going to the same fishmonger and ask them if they had Escolar and Albacore.  Escolar isn't very difficult to find but Albacore can be problematic.  Finally, I found some at the Lobster Place in Chelsea Market. So, let's take a quick look:


White "Tuna" vs. "White" Tuna
Now I'm no chromatist, but I am pretty sure I know what the color white looks like.  Although,  technically white isn't actually a color, but the absence of color.  Or wait, is it the presence of all color?  Shitballs, is it the reflection of all the colors of the visible light spectrum to the eye.  Of course, neither of these fish are pure white, but wait... what the fuck am I talking about?   

Not so confusing anymore.
That's right, Albacore tuna isn't white.  While it can be more pale than the one I purchased, it will have a pinkish hue.  Part of me wonders if the Japanese word for white also means pale.  If Inuits have a bazillion words for snow, why wouldn't another culture have one word for 17 forms of white.  Additionally, Escolar is also opaque and shimmery.  Albacore will be more translucent.

Ultimately, we are left with two likely outcomes:  a fish that is a tuna but not white or a white fish that is not a tuna.  

This leads me to my white tuna apocalypse:  White Tuna and Super White Tuna on the same menu.  I have not been able to identify Super White Tuna as anything other than Escolar, but it should be noted that amongst the things I am not, marine biologist ranks up there with chromatist.  

Gratuitous Tuna Porn
If there were a gun to my head, and I had to choose, I'd go for the Super White Tuna.  Its fat content make each bite sublime, while albacore's pleasure is more subtle and closer to the tuna that bombards us at every sushi joint.  The other challenge is that just because the Super White Tuna is Escolar, it doesn't mean that the White Tuna is Albacore.  There are plenty of fish in the sea that look like either of these two fish.  Your best bet is to ask a lot of questions.  If you get something that looks too white, has a buttery mouthfeel and a full, fatty flavor and they are telling you its absolutely a tuna, you are can safely assume that you have no idea what you are eating.

If you follow suit, take it easy and remember:
  1. Assume there is between .5 oz/1 oz of fish on any piece of sushi/sashimi 
  2. Stay under 6 ounces.  
  3. Maybe not so much with the white pants.  
If you have any experience here or other tips for readers, comment below!

8 comments:

Alicia said...

Thanks for your hard work getting this up! I just came back from having sashimi at two different places on back-to-back days and I had an unknown, very white, deliciously buttery, want to eat so much more of this, kind of fish at both places. I had to know what it was and I think you answered that.

Pablo Escolar said...

@Alicia:

It could very well be escolar. You should read my other post on the subject of Escolar and why you should be careful consuming Escolar.

Anonymous said...

I work as a sushi chef and we serve both albacore and escolar (which we call white tuna). I think you did a great job helping people differentiate. The are a few main things to look for: 1) color/opacity (escolar is WHITE and opaque); 2) texture, escolar is kinda greasy, tuna is 'dryer,' as in watery wet but not slippery lipid wet, and escolar is very firm for a fish, it is a resilient flesh, if you poke it with your finger it will not dent, albacore is softer and has more of a tendon structure, it will fall apart along the tendon lines and will leave a slight indent if you poke it. When all else fails the flavor will tell you for sure, the albacore will be meaty and have a slight iron taste, like tuna whereas the escolar will have a very buttery mouthfeel and a much richer palette, more like cream cheese than like rare beef. Nice photos!

Pablo Escolar said...

That is the first time I have gotten a complement on any photo on this blog. Thanks!

Chefs Resources said...

First time to your blog. Found it while searching for "white tuna aka escolar". Like your writing style, you speak like someone in the kitchen! Got to say that I have never heard of "white tuna" being the actual name of a tuna. Familiar with Albacore, Yellowfin (aka Ahi), Bluefin, and Bigeye. I guess I need to visit more sushi joints. Thanks for some insight into this miss-named fish.

Anonymous said...

Chefs Resources... "white tuna" is not a tuna, its escolar(aka white tuna)and it is really tasty if you grill it using the Nobu Black Cod recipe, BTW black cod isn't an actual fish either its sablefish.
Sometimes escolar is also marketed as butterfish

jah power said...

call it what you like, to the chef/fisherman in the know ,there is no mistaking the "king of sashimi" escolar......When fishing deep as we have in the cayman islands, or having it flown in fresh from honolulu seafood to san francisco for grilled dishes, this fish is up there with wahoo and snook for me. I think the folks who have had run into issues with the reading materials in the restrooms are not as big as issue as one would lead on.......I am looking forward to a big plate of fresh escolar upon my return to the caymans where my buddy recently held the world record all tackle IGFA......they are simply put "the other white meat"......the eyes don't lie.....

Anonymous said...

Genius!

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