I am not the
first person on the Internet to tell you that White Tuna is a confusing order at the sushi bar. While there are a host of fish that can be mislabeled as White Tuna, the two most common ones are the Albacore Tuna and our dreaded and delicious friend, the
Escolar.
 |
| What Is White Tuna? |
I worked really hard to source both fish in a raw form so that I could bring you pictures. And by 'worked really hard', I really mean: I would keep going to the same fishmonger and ask them if they had Escolar and Albacore. Escolar isn't very difficult to find but Albacore can be problematic. Finally, I found some at the
Lobster Place in Chelsea Market. So, let's take a quick look:
 |
| White "Tuna" vs. "White" Tuna |
Now I'm no chromatist, but I am pretty sure I know what the color white looks like. Although, technically white isn't actually a color, but the absence of color. Or wait, is it the presence of all color? Shitballs, is it the reflection of all the colors of the visible light spectrum to the eye. Of course, neither of these fish are pure white, but wait... what the fuck am I talking about?
 |
| Not so confusing anymore. |
That's right, Albacore tuna isn't white. While it can be more pale than the one I purchased, it will have a pinkish hue. Part of me wonders if the Japanese word for white also means pale. If Inuits have a bazillion words for snow, why wouldn't another culture have one word for 17 forms of white. Additionally, Escolar is also opaque and shimmery. Albacore will be more translucent.
Ultimately, we are left with two likely outcomes: a fish that is a tuna but not white or a white fish that is not a tuna.
This leads me to my white tuna apocalypse: White Tuna and Super White Tuna on the same menu. I have not been able to identify Super White Tuna as anything other than Escolar, but it should be noted that amongst the things I am not, marine biologist ranks up there with chromatist.
 |
| Gratuitous Tuna Porn |
If there were a gun to my head, and I had to choose, I'd go for the Super White Tuna. Its fat content make each bite sublime, while albacore's pleasure is more subtle and closer to the tuna that bombards us at every sushi joint. The other challenge is that just because the Super White Tuna is Escolar, it doesn't mean that the White Tuna is Albacore. There are plenty of fish in the sea that look like either of these two fish. Your best bet is to ask a lot of questions. If you get something that looks too white, has a buttery mouthfeel and a full, fatty flavor and they are telling you its absolutely a tuna, you are can safely assume that you have no idea what you are eating.
If you follow suit, take it easy and remember:
- Assume there is between .5 oz/1 oz of fish on any piece of sushi/sashimi
- Stay under 6 ounces.
- Maybe not so much with the white pants.
- Buy from a reputable source, I recommend:
If you have any experience here or other tips for readers, comment below!
Thanks for your hard work getting this up! I just came back from having sashimi at two different places on back-to-back days and I had an unknown, very white, deliciously buttery, want to eat so much more of this, kind of fish at both places. I had to know what it was and I think you answered that.
ReplyDelete@Alicia:
ReplyDeleteIt could very well be escolar. You should read my other post on the subject of Escolar and why you should be careful consuming Escolar.
I work as a sushi chef and we serve both albacore and escolar (which we call white tuna). I think you did a great job helping people differentiate. The are a few main things to look for: 1) color/opacity (escolar is WHITE and opaque); 2) texture, escolar is kinda greasy, tuna is 'dryer,' as in watery wet but not slippery lipid wet, and escolar is very firm for a fish, it is a resilient flesh, if you poke it with your finger it will not dent, albacore is softer and has more of a tendon structure, it will fall apart along the tendon lines and will leave a slight indent if you poke it. When all else fails the flavor will tell you for sure, the albacore will be meaty and have a slight iron taste, like tuna whereas the escolar will have a very buttery mouthfeel and a much richer palette, more like cream cheese than like rare beef. Nice photos!
ReplyDeleteThat is the first time I have gotten a complement on any photo on this blog. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteFirst time to your blog. Found it while searching for "white tuna aka escolar". Like your writing style, you speak like someone in the kitchen! Got to say that I have never heard of "white tuna" being the actual name of a tuna. Familiar with Albacore, Yellowfin (aka Ahi), Bluefin, and Bigeye. I guess I need to visit more sushi joints. Thanks for some insight into this miss-named fish.
ReplyDeleteChefs Resources... "white tuna" is not a tuna, its escolar(aka white tuna)and it is really tasty if you grill it using the Nobu Black Cod recipe, BTW black cod isn't an actual fish either its sablefish.
ReplyDeleteSometimes escolar is also marketed as butterfish
call it what you like, to the chef/fisherman in the know ,there is no mistaking the "king of sashimi" escolar......When fishing deep as we have in the cayman islands, or having it flown in fresh from honolulu seafood to san francisco for grilled dishes, this fish is up there with wahoo and snook for me. I think the folks who have had run into issues with the reading materials in the restrooms are not as big as issue as one would lead on.......I am looking forward to a big plate of fresh escolar upon my return to the caymans where my buddy recently held the world record all tackle IGFA......they are simply put "the other white meat"......the eyes don't lie.....
ReplyDeleteGenius!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for going to so much trouble. Your blog was informative, humorous, witty & fun. I've been to several sushi places & until recently, never had escolar. It was firm yet buttery, had a lovely mouth feel & IMO was the best bite on the plate. When I asked what this tasty tidbit was, they of course said "white tuna". Now never hearing of any such fish, off to the interwebs I go to find further confusion. Thanks again for clearing it up.
ReplyDeleteGreat chart and photos. I`ve eaten enough sushi to pretty much be able to name anything that's being served but its still cool to see the types of fish being classified as "white tuna." IMO white tuna is probably the most ambiguous or confusing naming for a fish.
ReplyDelete@ Jah Power:
I'm not a chef/fisherman but I'm sure the "king of sashimi" isn't escolar, that title goes to the bluefin tuna specifically "toro" or the belly section. The fish has been know to sell for upwards of $100k in Japan's fish market. Regardless you are right in that the negative stories surrounding escolar are probably just exaggerations, the fish is so good it`s worth eating even if you do get sick.
As one who has been unfortunate to have experienced the end results (pun intended) of "white tuna" (Escolar), I am very careful in how much I consume.
ReplyDeleteAt my two neighborhood sushi places, "white tuna" has replaced flounder and other white fish on the sushi special plates. I didn't like the taste or texture and, therefore, googled "white tuna" to see what they were pawning off on us. Since it's the luncheon bargain special, I can't believe they're giving us the best of the best. Any idea what other opaque,white, firm textured fish can be labeled "white tuna?"
ReplyDeleteIt could really be anything, but the top of the blog post does have a chart of fish often labeled as white tuna. Any reason to think it isn't escolar?
ReplyDeleteThe texture sounds like escolar, but it doesn't have a buttery, rich taste. But you may be right--it could be escolar. If so, while many on this blog like it a lot, I do not! Thanks for the chart and all the info.
ReplyDeleteJapan and Italy have both banned escolar due to health concerns. Many other countries have issued advisories regarding its consumption.
ReplyDeleteI bumped into this site this morning since I am a traditionally Japanese trained sushi chef, not one that works in a Chinese all-you-can-eat sushi bar (no offense to Chinese sushi bar workers) and a one time sufferer of escolar.
ReplyDeleteSix years ago, I researched escolar ad nauseum. With more exposure lately given to deliberately mislabeled fish, it reawakened my interest in escolar. Unfortunately, this article taught me nothing new. But, I do see a stream of misinformation, here, too. And there's no modernist reasoning, either. I hope you have more substantive articles in your archive and in your future. So far this site has been a flat disappointment.
Escolar, is not the king of sushi. That distinction is carried by blue-fin tuna and carries its own tragedy (worldwide depletion by Japanese consumption) in its elevation as such. It seems to be extremely popular at Korean owned sushi places and Korean markets like HMart. They change the name to command a higher price for an inferior product - same thing with red snapper replaced by tilapia - and commit fraud upon the public.
I worked and learned under great Japanese masters and before we elevate them, keep in mind they are solely to blame for the onset of this fraudulent behaviour, as well as the illegal importing of whale meat - but that's another story.
We need more information, education and awareness. Flimsy articles are not what is expected from a modernist kitchen. We need substance, not fluff, or making things up as they sound good, creatively. Write a novel if those are your ends. Leave information to the informed.
Sun,
DeleteFor all the bla-bla you have written in here and your all knowing, high and all righteous attitude about someone who is informed. With all your criticizing on the article and the information it contains who actually have said nothing or contributed anything useful in the topic. All you did was criticized. You feel it makes you such a "big boy" to step on people opinions? Well, your just one dumd ass who wants to sound intelligent by just opening your mouth even nothing but crap comes out of it.
Sun:
ReplyDeleteHey if I got something wrong here, I'd love to fix it. What misinformation am I providing?
Wow, some harsh words from Sun. I thoroughly enjoyed your article (and writing style) and appreciate your effort in posting this for all to see. Time to go eat some sushi.
ReplyDeleteThis is some great investigation and information - thank you!
ReplyDeleteFYI - Oceana did DNA testing on samples from various fish retail outlets (groceries, restaurants, and sushi venues) across the US and report that 84% of fish samples labeled “white tuna” were actually escolar.
http://oceana.org/en/news-media/publications/reports/oceana-study-reveals-seafood-fraud-nationwide
" technically white isn't actually a color, but the absence of color."
ReplyDeleteACTUALLY WHITE IS THE COMBINATION OF ALL COLORS ... BLACK IS A ABSENCE OF ALL COLOR ...
Additive/light vs subtractive/pigment colors. You are both basically right. What a world we live in!
DeleteAs far as blaming the Japanese,Sun, a few bits of information are obsolete. You must have trained either in the previous generation or generation before that. No Japanese that I know eats Whale meat. The only reported eaters of whale meat are dying out.. those were mostly World War 2 era people. Do the Japanese still catch whales, yes, but fact is, its a dying business, as nobody here eats it. If you want to point fingers, look no further than China. They are the largest consumers of Whale, Turtle, Shark Fin and many of the foods abandoned by the Japanese. I felt that I could not over look this bit of obsolete information. Current is always better than outdated, except for Wine, Sake and Cheese. This was a great article, and points out differences. I only wish there was a release so Americans know what canned Tuna is real and what is escolar.
ReplyDelete@ Anonomous, Agreed, just like "tinting" windows is making them lighter, and Shading makes them darker. I find it funny in paint shops and auto shops. -Graphic Designers laugh at ignorance, not at the people.
ReplyDeleteHi, I enjoyed your blog and wish I'd read it BEFORE I tried the fish!
ReplyDeleteI wanted to use your photo on Urbanspoon here
http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/47/1513312/restaurant/Nashville/Hana-Sushi-Hendersonville
. If it's not OK lemme know at tommy atomic salami (all one word) at gee mail... I'll remove it quickly. I did put photo credit to you and a link to this blog there. Good job on the blog! #3 result on Google after Wikipedia and one other!
The only bad thing about Escolar is that if you eat more than a few pieces of the raw flesh it can give you explosive bowel movements. Every fisherman that I know including myself will tell you this so no haters please. I still eat "white tuna" from the sushi bar just for spite. :D
ReplyDeleteI find your blog informative. I've read different informations about "white tuna aka escolar". I got curious about it since I've served once. It doesactually taste great and I liked it. I went back 2-3 times in that sushi Resto for that "white tuna", though I have this gut feeling, something isn't right. So I start reading informations about white tuna. When I read about escolar, I didn't visit that sushi Resto anymore. I was disappointed. With photos on your blog, clearly I understood the difference.
ReplyDeleteFor those who have different opinion, it's ok. Maybe you can do your own research and blog it too.
Buy for me, I find this blog informative. Thank you for your research. :)
Sun - my son all written in this article is true and correlates with all other info on the escolar/white tuna issue, YOU sun on the other hand are insulting, full of it and give no response as to what is wrong with this article. Its great. Informative and fun. get a life asshole .
ReplyDeleteThanks for the informative post!
ReplyDeleteI know it's quite old but I found it just today while doing a search about Escolar, after seeing it for the first time on the menu at a new sushi place. Didn't try it but I may in the future (in small amounts, thanks to your info)!
Anyway, just wanted add that this sushi bar also had white tuna on the menu - specifically listed as "albacore". As a biologist, I'm always really skeptical about common names, since a dozen different names can often refer to a single species whereas whole group of completely unrelated organisms will sometimes share a single commonly used name. Seems the term "white tuna" is just and extension of this confusion as it could probably loosely refer to a number of species.
As for alabcore - which in Latin literally means white (alba) flesh (caro), it generally refers to the pink fleshed tuna species (Thunnus alalunga) - which again in latin means long-wing or long-fin tuna - still another common name for the fish! Oddly enough the scientific name for yellowfin is Thunnus albacares - so go figure...
I really liked your article as well! It helped me to identify the fish I served to my family tonight. I bought three steaks at Vons and they had it displayed with similar-sized steaks of ahi tuna. It didn't look like tuna to me, so I asked the guy at the counter about it. He took out the tray, looked at some tag on it and confirmed that it was indeed tuna. I wasn't too worried -- it looked like big, firm, white pieces of fishy deliciousness! He rang it up at the tuna price, wrapped it up and put the sticker on it. Two nights later I bake the fish and though it flakes apart, notice the soft, gelatinous texture. My husband, who doesn't typically like fish much, really liked it. But the texture was not what I was expecting at all and I couldn't finish my portion of it because it was just so OILY! Now, im not usually picky and i like my share of greasy food, but oil literally just exuded from the fish while being chewed. The day before cooking it I was looking online, trying to identify what this fish was, oilfish came up. But I was in denial and thought "naaahhh..." but lo and behold, here it was, and mislabeled as tuna no doubt! I wish I would have found your article first because I probably would have recognized it, cooked the salmon I had instead and taken the oilfish back. But really, cooking it was what convinced me about what it was. Now I know and won't make that mistake again!
ReplyDeleteYou got escolared link look it up and learn what Tuna is often replaced with. When you get the uncontrollable shits and all you've ate was sushi you got escolared. Cheaper to serve Escolar than Tuna. Escolar is not meant to be consumed in the US but hasn't caught on yet by our FDA. Don't eat it if you don't want to get sick. This site is great to try and distinguish the difference but I gave it up all together rather than get tricked not worth the effort for me to try and tell the difference.
ReplyDeleteDon't eat escolar. It can make you pretty sick.
ReplyDeletehttps://rosieschwartz.com/2012/12/10/fish-eaters-beware-of-the-butterfish-your-tummy-may-thank-you/
What is life without risk? Had escolar for the first time (unknowingly) and was blown away by the taste and texture...but I'm reluctant to repeat the experience given the kind of risks you describe, though it sounds like I got lucky! I wish there was something to eat with it, or take beforehand, to protect ones tummy (or pants!) but maybe some things just weren't meant to be consumed by humans.... thanks for an entertaining analysis! ��
ReplyDeletehttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_butterfish
ReplyDeleteIs Ibodai, served as "White Tuna" in Japan and North America, mainly in Sushi.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Escolar
Is the fish that poisons you.
As you can see the fishes do not look the same at all. If you expect to eat one and get the other the restaurant is clearly complicit in it's deception.
We had this tonight, but it was on one of those big boats with a combination of other things. I asked the waitress twice what it was, and she kept saying it was white tuna. "Her favorite" the texture and taste are amazing. Luckily, now that I know all this, there were only 3 pieces to share between 4 people. I just kept puzzling over it, because it doesn't have the texture or taste of fish whatsoever, to me.... but so delicious.
ReplyDelete